The Outer Hebrides

As I mentioned in my last post, I’m now back on the mainland having caught the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool on Sunday (no mal de mer bags needed this time)

I loved the Outer Hebrides, they were friendly, sleepy islands – nothing happened in a rush, there’s a greater chance of bumping into a sheep than a person and you’re never far from a white sandy beach, often with seals on the rocks. I went to 10 islands in total but because of how the land is and with so many being connected by causeways and with the Isles of Harris and Lewis actually being the part of the same land mass you don’t always know when you’re changing islands.

My highlights from each of the main islands:

Barra – the friendliness of the people and sense of community, everyone knew each others business and they were more than happy to gossip to an outsider! The beaches around the airport, watching a plane take off and land, and seeing porpoises.

South Uist – It’s a fairly long, deserted strip of an island, with nothing which really stood out from the other islands. But and this is a big but, I saw a wild otter on a beach, so I’d go back. Oh, and lots of seals really close to shore. Maybe it did stand out. 

Benbecula – the sweeping white sand beaches


North Uist – the beaches in the north. I went out walking for a day in the sun and stood on a sand dune ridge which joined onto another ridge. On all sides were white sand beaches and turquoise blue seas and I didn’t see another person all day. 

Harris – the contrast of the beaches with the lunar type rocks. The biggest hill I’ve ever cycled up.

Lewis – birds of prey, so many eagles and buzzards. An unexpected highlight – Lews Castle grounds in Stornoway. So much more than castle grounds – I went for 2 walks, went Segwaying for the first time and had a ride around the MTB trails in the 2 days I was there.

There is also one other highlight. The reason I first wanted to come to the Outer Hebrides is that I’d seen a photo online of cows on a beach on the Isle of Lewis. On South Uist, North Uist and Lewis I saw cows on beaches. 700 miles to see a cow on a beach – it was worth every mile of it.